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I was delighted to discover that the south Indian blend podi – a coarse mix of searingly hot, roughly ground spices, which you stir into a little oil and use as a dip for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” seasoning. That’s not a misnomer if you were using my grandmother’s home-dried chillies, but it would be generous to say that I’m far less bold with chilli, so here I suggest chilli flakes instead. It’s an exceptionally great marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Gunpowder Paneer and Potato Skewers with Lime-Mint Dressing

Prepare six to eight metal or wooden skewers (if wooden, let them sit in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 minutes
Cook half an hour
Serves a couple

14 ounces firm potatoes, sliced into 4cm chunks
225g paneer, cubed into 0.8-inch cubes
1 tsp coriander seeds
Half a tsp fennel seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp black peppercorns
1 tsp chilli flakes
1½ tsp flaky sea salt, and additional for garnish
2 garlic pieces, prepared and minced
1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated
about 3 tablespoons flavorless oil
1 red onion, peeled and cut into eight wedges, then sliced across

For the dressing
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime
0.35 ounces fresh mint leaves, diced small
½ tsp flaky sea salt
100g natural yoghurt

Simmer the potatoes for about 10 minutes, then remove the water and leave to steam dry for a minute. In the interim, put the paneer cubes in a pot of hot water for a short while, then remove water and dry gently.

Tip the coriander, fennel and cumin seeds into a pestle and mortar or blender, add the salt, chili flakes, and peppercorns, then pound or blitz to a chunky blend.

Transfer to a large mixing bowl with the shredded aromatics, add the oil, then gently stir in the ingredients to coat. Arrange the components on to barbecue sticks, then transfer to a baking sheet and keep ready – if you like, you can at this stage cover and refrigerate the skewers.

Stir all the ingredients for the dressing in a mixing bowl. Turn on the grill to its top temperature, then cook the skewers for a short time on each side, until the paneer is golden brown and the potatoes are getting slightly burnt. (This may take a little more or less time depending on the heat of your broiler, so monitor closely, especially when cooking the first side.)

Offer the grilled sticks immediately, sprinkled with a little more sea salt and the dressing alongside for dipping.